donderdag 12 juli 2007

Zuid-Afrika en Namibië

In Zuid-Afrika aangekomen, hebben we gezellig bij Toms broer Joep en gezin in Kaapstad gelogeerd, erg leuk om ze na lange tijd weer te zien!

We hadden al bedacht dat we een auto wilden huren, om Namibië nog te kunnen zien. Het is dan wel “verkeerd om” voor ons gevoel, om van Kaapstad weer omhoog naar Namibië te rijden, maar dan hebben we tóch onze reis, op Angola na, over land afgelegd.

Vanaf de 27e hebben we een auto gehuurd. Eigenlijk hadden we gehoopt een 4WD auto met daktent te huren, om een beetje op dezelfde manier verder te reizen. Maar helaas, die waren allemaal al weg; het is vakantie voor de Zuid Afrikanen, en die zijn blijkbaar dol op kamperen en 4x4 rijden. Dus werd het een kampeerbusje. Wat een overgang, van onze stoere Nissan Patrol, 4x4 met daktent, naar een truttig en suf Mercedes Vito busje (2WD) waarop met grote letters staat: “Maui Car Rental Services”. We voelden ons net een stel bejaarde toeristen in plaats van overlandreizigers. Maar, aangezien we bijna alle kampeerspullen in DRC hebben moeten achterlaten, was dit busje erg handig; alles wat we nodig hadden om te kamperen zat er in. En met de koude nachten was het toch ook best lekker om binnen in het busje te kunnen slapen.

Voor dat we weg gingen, hadden we boodschappen gedaan in een grote supermarkt, we hadden een mega koelbox in het busje, dus daar moesten we dan maar meteen gebruik van maken! Uitgebreid dingen gekocht die we de afgelopen maanden hebben gemist, zoals boterhammen ipv taaie zanderige stokbroden en na 4 maanden lachende koe op brood (La Vache Qui Rit, wie kent em nie)… eindelijk weer eens andere soorten beleg, én niet te vergeten…vlees voor een braai!

Via de westkust van Zuid-Afrika naar Namibië, een mooie geasfalteerde route met veel bergen, rotsen, riviertjes en meertjes. Het links rijden wende gelukkig ook weer snel. Begin van de avond kwamen we bij de grensovergang aan in Vioolsdrift. Even de auto registreren, formulieren invullen met persoonsgegevens, stempels in de paspoorten en binnen 10 minuten waren we Zuid-Afrika uit. Het binnengaan van Namibië bij Noordoewer was in principe net zo makkelijk. Alleen dachten wij, na onze fijne DRC-ervaringen, dat we weer eens Afrikaans opgelicht werden; we moesten namelijk voor het gebruik van de Namibische wegen betalen. Daar hadden wij niets over gehoord, en Maui had ons verzekerd dat alles voor de grensovergang voor de auto al was geregeld en betaald… We hadden niet genoeg geld bij ons, en moesten op zoek naar een bank. We kregen het bonnetje voor het weggebruik wel mee, en we dachten stiekem “Zullen we gewoon niet betalen en niet meer terugkomen?” Wij de grenspost verlaten en bij een pinautomaat in een winkeltje vlakbij wat geld opgenomen. Aan het personeel vroegen we of zij bekend zijn met het betalen voor het gebruik van de wegen. Toch maar goed dat we dat gedaan hadden, het blijkt dat alles in Namibië in een computersysteem geregistreerd wordt, en agenten je bij ieder roadblock kunnen vragen naar dat papiertje, en ook bij het verlaten van Namibië dien je het papiertje te tonen. Als je dan niet betaald blijkt te hebben, heb je een groot probleem. Dus toch maar teruggegaan naar de grenspost en betaald.

De eerste nacht hebben we op een camping in Noordoewer gestaan. We hadden in ons hoofd om de volgende dag vroeg op te staan en naar Windhoek te rijden, want we hadden maar 2 weken om Namibië te zien, en Namibië is een land met grote afstanden. Toen we de volgende ochtend wakker werden in ons busje, en we de gordijntjes open deden, bleek dat we een geweldig uitzicht hadden. De avond ervoor was het donker toen we aankwamen, geen idee dat we naast de Orange River stonden en op de bergen uitkeken. Het was er zo heerlijk rustig, dat we besloten nog een nacht te blijven, konden we meteen ook ons DRC-verhaal voor de website schrijven. Op de camping stonden aardig wat Zuid-Afrikanen, allemaal met dikke 4WD auto’s met daktent en de meest luxe outdoor spullen. Grappig dat in de afgelopen landen en in Europa een daktent iets heel speciaals is, hier in Namibië is het heel normaal om met de hele familie te kamperen, er stonden zelfs auto’s met 2 daktenten erop, of complete aanhangers waar daktenten opgebouwd waren.

Na een dagje relaxen in Noordoewer zijn we vrijdag de 29e naar de hoofdstad Windhoek gereden. Onderweg zagen we overal rockdassies, een soort groot uitgevallen grijze cavia’s. Deze schattige beestjes lagen heerlijk te zonnen op de rotsen langs de weg. Alleen hadden een aantal rockdassies blijkbaar het plan aan de andere kant van de weg te gaan zonnen, maar waren niet snel genoeg…platte asfaltdassies.

Eind van de middag kwamen we in Windhoek aan, waar we Paul (reisgenoot Kameroen, Gabon, Kongo) hebben opgezocht. We hebben in hetzelfde backpackershotel overnacht, en gezellig bij gekletst over zijn Angola en Namibië ervaringen en ons avontuur in DRC.

Zaterdag bedacht dat we naar Etosha National Park zouden rijden, om daar op een camping binnen de poorten van het park te kamperen. Maar toen we daar aankwamen, bleken alle 3 de restcamps al vol te zijn; we hadden moeten reserveren ivm vakantieperiode voor de Zuid-Afrikanen. Een camping vlak buiten de poorten gezocht, en daar gestaan, om de volgende ochtend vroeg het park in te gaan.

Om 06.15 uur reden we zondagochtend het park binnen, als échte wildlife-toeristen met onze verrekijker, Wildlife in Southern Africa boek en fotocamera op schoot, klaar om de net wakker geworden beestjes te spotten. We hebben de hele dag rondgereden in Etosha, en hebben aardig wat dieren gezien. Het hoogtepunt was toch wel toen een stel hyena’s met hun prooi vlak langs ons busje kwamen lopen, en zó dicht bij, dat we voor de zekerheid onze raampjes maar hebben dichtgedaan.

’s Avonds zijn we naar een backpackershotel in Tsumeb gegaan. Daar hebben we op internet een vlucht naar huis geboekt. Wel een raar idee, 12 juli weer naar huis…de afgelopen dagen hadden we samen veel over thuis gepraat, hoe het met het huis is, hoe Toms kleine nichtje er uit zou zien na zo’n lange tijd, én we hadden ook al flink gebrainstormd over banen. Ondanks het feit dat het bijna einde van de reis was, al wel weer zin om naar huis te gaan en vooral om na 5 maanden onze familie en vrienden weer te zien.

De dag erop hebben we o.a. de Hoba Meteoriet bekeken in de achtertuin van een boerderij. Deze meteoriet van 54000 kg, is ongeveer 80000 jaar geleden op aarde neergekomen, vlakbij Grootfontein. Daarna naar Windhoek terug gegaan, om voor Tom een kapper te zoeken. Nou, we hebben er een gevonden hoor, en wat voor 1. Een hele grote hardhandige vrouw, ze sjeesde met standje 5 zo snel door Toms haren, ze zou zo mee kunnen doen aan de kampioenschappen schapen scheren op Texel!

De 3e zijn we naar Harnas Wildlife Foundation gegaan, vlakbij Gobabis en de grens met Botswana. De familie Van der Merwe heeft hier een soort farm, een gigantisch terrein met opvang voor misbruikte, zieke en weesdieren, o.a. leeuwen, cheeta’s, luipaarden, wilde honden, apen en stokstaartjes. Geweldig om hier te kamperen; we werden op ons kampeerplekje zelfs vergezeld door een loslopende zebra, die zich lekker kwam opwarmen aan onze braai.

De volgende ochtend werden we wakker van het gebrul van leeuwen, die vlak achter ons achter een hekwerk verbleven, en hebben we met een gids en een klein clubje mensen een tourtje gedaan. In een open auto, met daarachter een aanhanger, vol met grote bloederige lappen vlees, om de leeuwen, wilde honden, linxen en luipaarden te voeren. Bij de cheeta’s zijn we de hekken zelfs binnen gereden toen we ze gingen voeren. Gaaf om die beesten van zo dichtbij te zien!

Na het tourtje zijn we weer terug naar Windhoek gereden, om voor de 3e keer bij ons favoriete backpackershotel te overnachten, om de dag erna naar de Namib Desert te gaan. Onderweg nog even gestopt in Witvlei, bij een camping waar een overlandvoertuig te koop stond, een Unimog, volledig uitgerust en ingericht voor Afrikareizen. We waren gewoon nieuwsgierig en wilden zo’n ding wel eens van binnen bekijken. De eigenaar bleek ook een Nederlander, en na een praatje over zijn Namibische avonturen hebben we even een kijkje genomen in de auto, wat een bakbeest zeg! Leuk om te zien, wie weet een idee voor een volgende reis..?

Van Windhoek naar de Namib Desert, we hadden een route via de Gramsbergpas uitgekozen, een mooie route hoor, maarre…wel stofhappen op die gravelwegen! Niet ver na het bord “Tropic of Capricorn” kwamen we in Solitaire aan, om “even” te tanken. Meerdere mensen hadden dat zelfde plan, gigantische wachtrijen bij het tankstation. Allemaal Zuid-Afrikanen, op weg naar dezelfde bestemming, het plaatsje Sesriem en vanuit daar naar de woestijn en de duinen bij Sossusvlei. Na het tanken doorgereden naar Sesriem, daar is een camping binnen de poorten van Namib Naukluft Park. Alleen vanuit deze camping kun je ’s morgens de zonsopgang in de Namib Desert bekijken. Helaas was de camping vol, en hebben we uiteindelijk een mooi plekje gereserveerd op een camping die 10 km verderop lag.

Vrijdagochtend ging onze wekker al om 05.30 uur, om op tijd bij de poorten van het Nationaal Park te staan, en snel naar de duinen te kunnen rijden. Dan wel geen zonsopgang meegemaakt in de duinen, maar evengoed was het prachtig! We hebben een paar uur met groot plezier rond gebanjerd in het roodbruine zand, en genoten van de uitzichten als we sommige duinen beklommen. Alleen maar zandduinen, zover als je kan kijken, het ultieme woestijngevoel!

Na dit woestijnavontuur zijn we via Maltahöhe naar het zuiden, naar Keetmanshoop gereden. Vanuit daar de volgende dag naar Fish River Canyon gegaan, om daar te relaxen in het warme water van de Ais Ais Hotsprings.

Zondag 8 juli zijn we weer teruggegaan naar de leuke camping in Noordoewer, waar we onze 1e nacht in Namibië ook hadden gestaan, nu om daar onze laatste dag en nacht in Namibië door te brengen. Nog per kano een tocht over de Orange Rivier gemaakt, en de dag erna vroeg vertrokken; terug naar Kaapstad.

110 opmerkingen:

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He Lau en Tom,

klinkt ook ontzettend mooi, hopelijk hebben jullie ook geweldig genoten van Namibie, we zullen het vast snel horen want jullie zijn al bijna weer terug in Nederland!

Geweldig om jullie op deze manier te hebben gevolgd,

Tot snel!

Liefs van de buurtjes!

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[quote]TOKYO – Nearly a half million people in Japan were ordered to higher ground on Sunday, as coastal areas across the vast Pacific region braced for lethal tsunami waves. But only small waves appeared, and there were no reports of damage.

Areas ranging from Sydney, Australia, to the Russian Far East to the Hawaiian islands conducted evacuations and warned residents to be on the lookout for large waves following the 8.8 magnitude earthquake that devastated parts of Chile on Saturday. The Asia-Pacific region waited in suspense for almost 24 hours, the time that scientists predicted it would take shock waves from the powerful earthquake to race across the ocean in the form of massive waves.

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Television news programs showed elderly residents in Iwate prefecture sitting on blankets in school gyms that had been turned into makeshift shelters. In the hilly port city of Hakodate, on the northernmost island of Hokkaido, residents sat on hilltops for hours on Sunday watching the sea.[/quote]

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